Which made me wonder what I would learn if I took the tube out? Right now I can't hear any difference between tube in and tube out. I popped the top off, and wiggled the tube. It’s not a simple switch as it’s driving transistor switching circuits, which is why I suggested taking the tube out to check the switching circuits are working properly and are bringing the tube in and out. It only looks like this is going to make much difference at loud gig levels to me, much the same as a loud non-master volume valve bass amp would behave.ĭon't forget that tubes when not overdriven, can be almost as non-distorting as solid state devices, just a bit noisier. So to get it to overdrive, you'll need the master volume up as well as a reasonable level of input drive. It appears to be right before the power amp section, between the pre-amp and the power amp, and is after both the master volume and the limiter. No extra controls for it so it's dependent on upstream signal levels for pushing any drive from it. not in parallel with anything or instead of another solid state stage) with both halves of the 12AX7 in use, but I can't tell how exactly much gain it's been configured for, if any. This tube section looks more like an extra preamp stage (i.e. You can find a circuit diagram for it on line (though there have been quite a few revisions so yours might be slightly different in components). You might notice a slight change in the tone, or amount of gain you get, the 12AX7 is basically a high gain (theoretical maximum of 100) small signal twin-triode tube with a nine-pin base, it is used a lot in guitar amplifiers and some high-end stereo audio equipment.īest thing to do is get hold of a few 12AX7, 7025, and ECC83 tubes and try each of them out one by one till you find one that has a tone you like. You can replace it with a 7025 (basically a low noise version of the 12AX7), an ECC83 (the European equivalent of the 12AX7), a 12AX7A, a 12AX7WA tube and they all should work fine. I am thinking of swapping out the 12AX7 for some other tube, but I don't know much about this and wondered if anyone here had advice about that.and what I might expect by changing the tube? What it seems to do, however is nothin at all. I thought this might make the sound a little warmer, or change the sound of the overdrive. It's mostly solid state, but has one 12AX7 tube which can be engaged or disengaged. Mine has class D power, with lots of tone shaping knobs (drive, parametric eq, graphic eq, treble, bass and contour and compression), and weighs in under 6lbs. I gather that it's not that well known outside the US. Carvin stopped producing amps in 2017, but up to then was pretty well known in the US. Fit, finish and tone make it a great buy! Watch the video for more info or go to carvinguitars.My main bass amp is a Carvin BX500. Personally I give it a 4.8 out of 5 stars. With hundreds of options available, you can build your JB5 exactly the way you want it, whether you prefer a classic, understated look or a fully-loaded eye-catcher.” However, because we sell direct to you, you don’t have to pay a boutique price for your new JB5. The JB5 is made in the USA, and is loaded with features generally only found in boutique instruments. Features such as our locking bass bridge, smooth contoured neck heel with 5-bolt neck plate, 22-fret neck with dual carbon-fiber reinforcement rods and new JVA single-coil jazz pickups make the JB5 a true player’s instrument, regardless of your playing style or genre. It has been designed to offer superior balance, excellent tone, and playability that can’t be beat. The JB5 is more than just another take on a classic design it’s the best jazz bass we’ve ever made. This month we take on the Carvin/Kiesel JB 5 Bass…Ĭarvin states that, “The JB5 takes the classic jazz look that bassists appreciate, and combines that with contemporary features as found on other Custom Shop basses.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |